Buying and Living in a Manufactured Home: A Practical Guide

Summary. What to ask before you sign, what to do while you live there, and what to do when the notice arrives.

The one question that decides everything

Will you own the land?

Everything else in manufactured housing — the interest rate you pay, whether your home appreciates or depreciates, whether you can be evicted, whether you can sell, whether the ground under you can be sold out from under you — turns on that.

On owned land: the home can be converted to real property, financed with a mortgage at ordinary rates, insured normally, taxed with the land, protected by homestead exemptions, and it appreciates with the parcel.

On a rented lot: the home stays personal property, is financed as chattel at several points higher, depreciates, and sits on ground controlled by someone whose economic interest is the opposite of yours.

Neither is wrong. The rented-lot version is frequently the only affordable option available, and twenty million people are living it. But go in knowing which transaction you are doing, because the two look identical at the sales center and are not remotely the same thing.

Part one: shopping

At the sales center

Salespeople sell the monthly payment. Ask about the total.

Ask for a written, itemized price that separates:

The home itself
Delivery
Installation and setup
Foundation or piers
Skirting
Steps and decks
Air conditioning
Utility connections and any trenching
Permits
Any land improvements
Taxes and title fees

The gap between "the home is $68,900" and the actual out-the-door number is routinely $20,000 to $30,000, and it is routinely rolled into the loan.

Ask these questions and write down the answers:

What is the wind zone and roof load zone on the data plate, and is that appropriate for where I'm siting it?
Who does the installation, are they licensed and bonded in this state, and can I see the license?
What is the warranty — what does the manufacturer cover, what does the retailer cover, what does the installer cover, and for how long each?
Is the installation done to the manufacturer's installation manual? Can I have a copy of the manual?
What financing options are there besides yours?

Inspect the home

Photograph the data plate and the HUD certification label. Both. Every section. This takes two minutes and you will need it for a decade.
Check the floors for soft spots, especially near plumbing.
Check doors and windows — do they latch and close squarely?
On a multi-section home, examine the marriage line — the seam where sections join. This is where leaks and drafts start.
Look at the roof and ask its type, age, and warranty.
Ask about insulation values and the thermal zone.
If it is used, get an independent inspection by someone who does manufactured homes specifically — not a general home inspector, who will miss the things that matter here.

If it is going on a rented lot

Before anything else:

Ask for the lot rent history for the past five years. Not the current rent — the history. The trajectory tells you what you are buying into.
Ask who owns the park, and whether it has changed hands recently. Recent sale to an investment group is the strongest predictor of a large increase.
Get a copy of the lot lease and the park rules and read them before you buy the home.
Ask whether the park will approve you — and get it in writing before you commit to the home.
Ask what happens if you want to sell: can you sell in place, what are the screening criteria, does the park charge anything?
Walk the park. Vacant lots, deferred maintenance, and homes with for-sale signs that have been up a long time all tell you something.
Talk to residents. Ask what rent was three years ago.

Part two: financing

The gap, stated plainly

The same person buying the same home pays materially more if the home is titled as personal property, because a chattel loan carries a higher rate, a shorter term, and faster repossession than a mortgage.

If you own or are buying the land, ask specifically about a land-home package with a real mortgage. It usually requires permanent affixation and title surrender. The rate difference over twenty years is frequently tens of thousands of dollars.

Shopping the loan

Do not take dealer financing without shopping it. Dealers are compensated on financing. Call two banks and a credit union.
Ask about government-backed manufactured housing programs, which exist and carry better terms.
Get the APR, not the payment. Truth in Lending disclosures are required under 12 C.F.R. Part 1026 — read them.
Ask about prepayment penalties.
Ask what is bundled into the loan — extended warranties, insurance products, and add-ons frequently ride along.
Understand depreciation: financing a depreciating asset over twenty years can mean a decade of owing more than the home is worth.

Insurance, before closing

Get quotes early; specialty policies vary widely
Ask whether it is actual cash value or replacement cost — this is the difference between a payout that rebuilds and one that does not
Check the wind/hail deductible, often a percentage rather than a flat amount
Check the flood zone; flood is never in a standard policy and many parks are in floodplains
Confirm coverage for skirting, decks, sheds, carports, and central air — frequently separate or excluded
Confirm anchoring meets the requirement, because an insurer may dispute a wind claim otherwise

Part three: the lot lease

Find out what state you are in — legally

Roughly two-thirds of states have a mobile home park act. The rest apply ordinary landlord-tenant law, which assumes a tenant who can leave.

One phone call — to the state manufactured housing agency, a legal aid office, or the state manufactured home owners association — tells you which. Make it before you need it.

Where an act exists, it typically gives you:

A written lease, often with a minimum one-year term
Extended rent increase notice — 60 to 180 days
Good cause eviction
Long cure periods — 30 to 60 days for rule violations
The right to sell the home in place
Limits on entry, transfer, and commission fees
Park closure notice and sometimes relocation assistance
Anti-retaliation protection
Rules governing how park rules can change
Utility billing standards

Lease terms that conflict with the act are frequently unenforceable, and parks in act states routinely use leases drafted for states without one. Read them side by side.

Reading the lease

Term — how long, and how does renewal work?
Rent — amount, due date, late fees, and how increases are noticed
Utilities — who bills, how is usage measured, what is the rate, are there administrative fees?
Rules — attached? Can they change mid-term? What notice?
Maintenance — who is responsible for the pad, trees, drainage, and the utility lines up to the home?
Sale of the home — can you sell in place? What are the criteria? What fees?
Entry — when may the park enter your lot?
Termination — what grounds, what notice, what cure period?
Anything about removal of the home — read twice

Part four: living there

When the rent goes up

Most states do not cap the amount. What they provide is notice.

Do this, in order:

Check the notice against the state act. Was the period sufficient? Was it delivered as required? Defective notice is a real defense.
Check the lease. Does it restrict increases during the term?
Check for local rent regulation. A number of jurisdictions regulate mobile home park rents specifically.
Scrutinize the accompanying charges. New utility charges, administrative fees, and pass-throughs are where the improper conduct usually is.
Talk to your neighbors. Individually you have no leverage. Collectively you have quite a lot.

Utilities — where the money usually is

Ask, in writing:

How is my usage measured? Submeter, allocation formula, or flat rate?
When were the submeters last calibrated?
What rate are you charging, and how does it compare to the utility's own rate? Charging above the utility rate is prohibited in many states.
Are there administrative fees, and are they permitted?
Is common-area usage — the community building, irrigation, street lights — being allocated to residents?

Many park acts require disclosure of the billing method. Improper allocation is common, cumulative, and refundable.

Park rules

Rules generally must be reasonable and uniformly enforced
Selective enforcement is both a defense to eviction and potentially a fair housing violation — document who else is doing the same thing without consequence
Rule changes usually require notice, sometimes with a comment period
Watch for enforcement campaigns, which often precede a sale or closure

Organizing

This matters more here than anywhere else in tenant law, because individual leverage approaches zero.

Many park acts protect the right to organize and to meet in common areas
Form an association before there is a crisis — an association that exists is worth a hundred times one that must be built in six weeks
Get on the mailing list of your state manufactured home owners association
Learn the name of a resident-ownership technical assistance organization operating in your state
Keep a contact list of residents

If you get an eviction notice

Answer the case. Default judgments are the norm here and they are catastrophic — you can lose a $40,000 asset over $1,200 in rent.
Check whether the state act applies and whether the notice complied: grounds, content, delivery, and cure period.
Cure if you can — cure periods here are usually long.
Ask the court for time to sell the home in place rather than an order to remove it.
Raise selective enforcement if others do the same thing without consequence.
Do not abandon the home. Abandonment forfeits everything; a distressed sale recovers something. And abandonment procedures are frequently defective in ways that create claims.
Call legal aid. Many offices handle manufactured housing specifically.

Part five: selling

Your right to sell in place

In most park-act states you may sell the home and leave it on the lot, with the buyer signing a new lot lease.

The park may screen the buyer using criteria applied to everyone, but generally:

May not unreasonably withhold approval
May not require removal solely because the home is being sold
May not require the sale go through the park or a designated dealer
May not charge a commission on a private sale, in many states

How to protect yourself

Get the park's written screening criteria before you list.
Get the approval process and timeline in writing.
Document every rejection and the reason. If the reason is given verbally, send a letter confirming what you were told and asking for correction if you have it wrong. That is how four brush-offs become a documented pattern.
Compare rejections to the stated criteria.
If the pattern is unreasonable, write to the owner, copy the state manufactured housing agency, and say what you will do.

Pricing

Value depends on: owned versus rented land (the biggest factor by far), age, financeability, the park's rent level and trajectory, condition, and whether the park approves buyers reasonably. Price against actual in-park comparable sales, not online estimates, which are unreliable for manufactured housing.

And a warning

Never sign a document surrendering the home to the park without understanding what you are giving up. Homeowners under pressure are routinely offered a few hundred dollars to walk away from a home worth tens of thousands.

Part six: when the park is sold or closes

This is the moment that decides more manufactured housing outcomes than everything else combined, and the clock is short.

The day the notice arrives

Read the notice for dates. Closure notice periods run 6 to 12 months in many act states. Opportunity-to-purchase windows run 45 to 120 days, and they start immediately.
Call a resident-ownership technical assistance organization the same week. Not the same month. There are national and state organizations that do nothing but this, and they move fast when called early.
Call your state manufactured home owners association.
Call legal aid.
Form or activate the association. Elect officers. Open an account. Assign someone to communicate with residents.
Find out whether your state has:
- A right of first refusal or notice-and-opportunity-to-offer law
- Relocation assistance — from the owner or a state fund
- Any closure notice requirement, and whether this notice satisfied it

What a resident purchase involves

A cooperative buys the park; each household holds a share and a proprietary lease. Financing comes from community development lenders, state housing finance agencies, and specialized national lenders, secured largely by the lot rents themselves.

Rent usually goes up somewhat — debt service is real — and then stabilizes, set by residents to cover costs and reserves rather than to maximize return. Rules become democratic. Selling in place becomes simple. The closure risk goes away.

It requires: meaningful participation from a majority of residents, honest assessment of deferred maintenance (often the reason the owner is selling), and a board willing to serve.

If purchase is not possible

Claim every dollar of relocation assistance available; the application has deadlines
Get moving estimates early — and find out whether any park will accept your home's age
If the home cannot be moved, find out whether your state provides compensation for homes that cannot be relocated
Do not abandon it until you have confirmed there is no purchase or compensation option
Document the park's compliance, or non-compliance, with every notice requirement

Part seven: defects

The first year

Warranty periods are short and the clock does not care that you were busy.

If something is wrong:

Write to all three — manufacturer, retailer, installer — separately, by a method that proves the date, describing each defect specifically.
Photograph everything monthly, dated. Lay a level across the floor and photograph the bubble.
Keep a log of every call, visit, crew name, and repair attempt.
File with the state manufactured housing agency. They often inspect free and can order repairs.
File with HUD for construction and code issues.
Get an independent inspection from a manufactured-housing specialist.
Compare the installation to the manufacturer's installation manual and to the data plate's wind and roof load zones. This one comparison resolves a large share of these disputes — and almost nobody does it.

Who is responsible for what

Manufacturer — construction defects and HUD code compliance
Retailer — what was sold and represented, sometimes installation
Installer — leveling, piers, anchoring, utility connections

Installation is the cause far more often than construction, and the installer usually carries a bond that is reachable.

The federal hook

The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, 15 U.S.C. § 2301 and following, governs consumer product warranties, and its remedies provision, 15 U.S.C. § 2310, shifts attorney's fees to a prevailing consumer. That is what makes representation available on claims too small to litigate otherwise. Mention it in your demand letter.

Part eight: four situations, worked through

The purchase that should not have happened

Odalys Vandenberg-Achebe, 29, bought a new single-wide at a sales center on a Saturday. The salesperson quoted $412 a month. She signed.

The home was $61,400. Delivery, setup, piers, skirting, steps, a deck, central air, and utility trenching brought the total financed amount to $89,200. The rate was 9.4% on a twenty-year chattel loan. The lot rent at the park she moved into was $395 — and had been $260 four years earlier.

What she was never told, and should have asked:

The itemized total, not the payment
That the lot rent had risen 52% in four years
That the park had been sold to an investment group eight months before
That two banks in town would have quoted her a lower rate
That because the home was on a rented lot it would be titled as personal property, financed as chattel, and depreciate

Two years later the lot rent was $520, she owed $84,000 on a home worth roughly $48,000, and she could not sell because no buyer could finance it.

None of that was unlawful. All of it was avoidable with four questions asked on the Saturday she signed: What is the itemized total? What has lot rent done for five years? Who owns the park? What rate can I get somewhere else?

The lease that was written for another state

Fitzgerald Nakamura-Oyelaran rented a lot in a state with a mobile home park act. His lease said the park could terminate the tenancy on thirty days' notice for any reason, that rent could be raised on thirty days' notice, and that any sale of the home required removal from the park within sixty days.

Every one of those clauses was unenforceable in his state. The act required good cause for eviction, ninety days' notice for a rent increase, and expressly protected the right to sell the home in place.

The park was using a lease drafted for a state without an act. This is common — management companies operating across state lines use one form.

When Fitzgerald received a non-renewal notice, he did one thing: he read the act next to the lease and wrote a letter identifying the three conflicts and stating that the notice did not comply with the statutory good cause and notice requirements.

The notice was withdrawn.

The lesson. Reading the lease is not enough. Reading the lease next to the state act is where the answer is.

The utility bill nobody could explain

Constance Abaroa-Whitfield's lot rent was $440 plus "water/sewer/trash — $86." Her actual water use, on a submeter, could not plausibly have been $86 for one person.

She wrote to the park asking four questions, and this is the letter that works:

How is my usage measured?
When was my submeter last calibrated?
What per-unit rate are you charging, and how does it compare to the utility's published rate?
Is any common-area usage — the community building, irrigation, street lights — included in the allocation?

The answers, obtained after a second letter and a complaint to the state agency, were: allocation formula rather than submeter; submeters had never been read; the rate charged was 1.6 times the utility's; and yes, irrigation and the office building were in the pool.

Two of those four were prohibited under her state's act. The park refunded $2,340 to her and roughly $70,000 across the community, and moved to actual submetered billing.

The lesson. The rent increase is usually lawful. The charges bolted onto it frequently are not, and four written questions is the whole investigation.

The closure that became a purchase

Sunnyside Estates, sixty-one homes, received a notice of intent to sell in February. The state gave residents ninety days to make an offer.

What made it possible was work done two years earlier. After a rent increase in a prior year, the residents had formed an association — dues of $5 a month, three officers, quarterly meetings in the community building, which the state act protected their right to use. It was not doing much. It existed.

When the notice came, the association had: officers who could sign things, a bank account, a resident contact list, and a president who had met a representative of a resident-ownership technical assistance organization at a state conference.

She called that person on day three.

Days 3–20: feasibility analysis, physical assessment, rent roll review. Days 20–45: resident meetings, a vote (78% in favor), lender conversations. Days 45–75: letter of intent, financing commitment, due diligence. Day 82: offer submitted.

The purchase closed the following January. Lot rent rose from $455 to $505 to cover debt service and reserves, and has risen 3% a year since — a figure the residents themselves vote on annually.

The lesson. Ninety days is not enough time to organize from nothing. It is exactly enough time if an association already exists. The decisive work happened two years before anyone knew the park was for sale.

Part nine: a calendar

Before buying

Ask for the itemized total, not the payment
Photograph the data plate and HUD label
Get the lot rent history for five years and find out who owns the park
Get the lot lease and rules and read them before committing to the home
Get park approval in writing before you commit
Shop the loan at two banks and a credit union
Get insurance quotes and check the flood zone
Confirm zoning in writing if siting on your own land

First 30 days after installation

Walk the home with the installation manual and a level
Photograph everything, dated
Report any defect in writing to all three parties
Confirm the anchoring matches the data plate's wind zone

First year

Photograph monthly
Keep the repair log
File with the state agency if repairs fail twice
Find out whether your state has a park act

Every year

Review the utility billing method and rate
Check your property tax assessment and claim every exemption
Confirm insurance basis is still what you think it is
Attend or hold an association meeting

When a rent increase arrives

Check the notice period against the act
Check the accompanying charges — that is where the claims are
Talk to neighbors the same week

When an eviction notice arrives

Answer the case
Check notice compliance, grounds, and cure period
Ask for time to sell in place
Call legal aid
Do not abandon the home

When a sale or closure notice arrives

Read for dates — the purchase window may be 45 days
Call a resident-ownership technical assistance organization that week
Activate the association
Check for relocation assistance and its deadlines

Part ten: the errors that cost the most

Buying on the monthly payment. The itemized total is a different number and it is the real one.

Not asking about lot rent history. You are buying the trajectory, not the current figure.

Taking dealer financing without shopping it. Points, over twenty years, on eighty thousand dollars.

Not photographing the data plate. You will need the serial number and the wind zone, and the label will be weathered by then.

Reading the lease without reading the state act. Half the clauses may be unenforceable.

Paying utility charges without asking how they were calculated. Four questions in writing.

Not answering an eviction case. A default judgment over $1,200 in rent can cost a $40,000 home.

Abandoning the home. Total loss, always. Even a distressed sale recovers something, and abandonment procedures are often defective.

Signing a surrender document under pressure. Homeowners are routinely offered a few hundred dollars to walk away from tens of thousands.

Waiting for the closure notice to organize. By then the clock is 45 days and you have no entity, no account, and no phone numbers.

Letting the warranty year lapse. Write to all three parties the week you notice anything.

Not comparing the installation to the manual. The most winnable defect claim in this field, and almost nobody makes it.

Part eleven: on your own land

Everything above assumes the harder case. If you own or are buying the land, the transaction is far better and there are specific things to do.

Confirm zoning in writing before you buy anything. Ask the zoning office, by email so you have the answer in writing, whether a manufactured home of the specific width, age, and roof pitch you are considering may be placed on the specific parcel, and what foundation and siting requirements apply. Districts differ, requirements about age and width are common, and this is discovered too late constantly.

Ask about a land-home package with a real mortgage. It typically requires permanent affixation and title surrender, and it is worth several points of interest.

Complete the conversion to real property. Permanent foundation to the applicable standard; running gear removed; certificate of title surrendered; affidavit of affixation recorded in the land records; lienholder consent obtained. Then confirm the county assessor has it recorded as real property, because a home that is legally affixed but still shown as personal property in one office produces years of double taxation and title confusion.

Budget the site work honestly. Well or water tap, septic or sewer connection, electrical service, driveway, grading and drainage, and a foundation can equal a third of the cost of the home. Get these bid separately before you finance.

Watch drainage. More manufactured home problems trace to water at the perimeter than to anything the factory did. Grade away from the home, gutters, and functioning perimeter drainage prevent the leveling and moisture problems that generate most defect claims.

Claim the homestead exemption once it is real property, and any senior, disability, or veteran exemption. These are routinely unclaimed.

Get standard homeowner's insurance once converted, and confirm replacement cost rather than actual cash value.

Part twelve: aging homes and the improvement question

An older manufactured home presents a set of decisions with no obvious right answer, and it is worth naming the trade-offs plainly.

Pre-1976 homes — legally mobile homes, not manufactured homes — predate the HUD code. They are difficult to finance, difficult to insure, frequently ineligible to be moved into any park, and expensive to bring to modern efficiency. Many parks have rules excluding homes above a certain age, which forecloses relocation entirely.

The improvement calculus. Money put into a chattel home on a rented lot generally does not return on resale, because resale value is driven by the park, the financeability, and the age far more than by condition. Money that prevents deterioration — roof, skirting, drainage, HVAC — protects what value exists. Money spent on finishes usually does not come back.

The exception is energy. Insulation, sealing, windows, and HVAC in an older manufactured home often pay for themselves in utility savings faster than in any other housing type, because the baseline is so poor. Weatherization assistance programs exist in every state, are free for income-eligible households, and specifically serve manufactured housing. Ask your state weatherization agency. This is real money that goes unclaimed.

Replacement programs. A number of states and some utilities and nonprofits operate programs that replace very old manufactured homes with new energy-efficient ones for income-eligible owners. Availability is uneven and waitlists exist, but the programs are real and the state manufactured housing agency knows about them.

When to walk away. A home that cannot be financed, cannot be insured, cannot be moved, and sits on a lot whose rent is rising faster than income is not an asset that improvement will rescue. It is worth being honest about that early, while a sale is still possible, rather than after the equity is gone.

Part thirteen: the letters that do the work

Most of the leverage in this field is exercised in writing, and the letters are short. Here is what each one has to contain.

Asking about a park before buying: "Before I commit to purchasing a home for lot [__], I'd like: the lot rent for each of the past five years; a copy of the current lot lease and park rules; the written screening criteria for prospective residents; and written confirmation that my application is approved. Could you send those?"

Challenging a utility charge: "Regarding the water/sewer charge on my statement: How is my usage measured? When was my submeter last read or calibrated? What per-unit rate are you charging and how does it compare to [utility]'s published rate? Is any common-area usage included in the allocation? Please respond in writing."

Responding to a rent increase notice: "I received your notice dated [date] increasing lot rent effective [date]. Please confirm the notice period required under [state act citation] and the date and method of delivery. Please also identify the basis for the new [charge], which was not part of my lease."

Preserving a defect claim: "On [date] I identified the following conditions in the home delivered [date], serial number [___]: [list]. I am notifying you within the warranty period and requesting repair. I have photographed each condition. Please respond in writing with a schedule." — sent separately to manufacturer, retailer, and installer.

Documenting a buyer rejection: "On [date] you informed me by telephone that [buyer] was not approved because [reason as stated]. If I have misstated that, please correct me in writing. Please also send a copy of the written screening criteria applied to all applicants."

Responding to a rule enforcement notice: "I received your notice dated [date] regarding [rule]. Please identify the cure period provided under [state act citation]. I note that [other lots] appear to be in the same condition without notice; please confirm whether notices were issued to them, as the act requires uniform enforcement."

When a park offers to buy your home under pressure: "Thank you for the offer. Before responding I need: written confirmation of my right to sell the home in place, the written screening criteria you apply to buyers, and thirty days to obtain an independent valuation. I am not signing any surrender or transfer document at this time."

On the day a closure notice arrives: "Residents of [park] are forming an association and intend to exercise any right to purchase or to make an offer provided under [state law]. Please confirm the date this notice was issued, the deadline for a resident offer, and the asking price and terms being offered to third parties."

Every one of these should be dated, kept, and sent by a method that proves delivery. That is not lawyering. It is the entire difference between a homeowner with a claim and a homeowner with a memory.

Part fourteen: where to get help, free

Manufactured housing has an unusually well-developed free assistance network, and almost nobody in it knows the network exists.

The state manufactured housing agency — usually within a housing, commerce, or labor department. Takes complaints about installers, retailers, and in many states park operators; inspects; and can order repairs. Free. This is the first call for anything involving a defect or an improper charge.

HUD — for construction and HUD code compliance, through the manufactured housing program and the state administrative agency. Free.

Legal aid — many offices handle manufactured housing specifically, and several states have legal aid units dedicated to it. Free for income-eligible households.

The state manufactured home owners association — resident-run, knows the state act, knows which parks are being sold, and can connect you with other communities that have been through it.

Resident-ownership technical assistance organizations — national and state nonprofits that do nothing but help residents buy their communities. They provide feasibility analysis, financing connections, governance training, and post-purchase support. Call them before a sale notice arrives, not after.

Community development financial institutions and state housing finance agencies — the lenders for resident purchases, and frequently for individual home purchases at better terms than a dealer will offer.

State weatherization agency — free energy improvements for income-eligible households, and manufactured homes are specifically served. Insulation, sealing, and HVAC in an older manufactured home frequently pay back faster than in any other housing type.

The attorney general's consumer division — for deceptive sales practices, financing problems, and unlicensed contractors.

Your county extension office, in rural areas, which frequently knows the local landscape and the state programs.

One habit worth adopting: collect these numbers now, while nothing is wrong, and keep them with your data plate photographs. In this field, the difference between a good outcome and a bad one is usually whether the right call was made in the first week.

Frequently asked questions

Should I buy a manufactured home? On land you own, it is frequently an excellent value. On a rented lot, it can be the only affordable option and it carries real risk — go in knowing the lot rent history and who owns the park.

Can I convert to real property? Only if you own the land (or hold a qualifying recorded long-term lease in some states), the home is permanently affixed, running gear removed, title surrendered, and any lienholder consents.

How much can they raise the rent? In most states, any amount, with notice. Check for local rent regulation.

Can I be evicted? In park-act states, only for good cause, after notice and usually a long cure period.

Can I sell my home on the lot? In most park-act states, yes. Get the screening criteria in writing and document every rejection.

The park is closing. Call a resident-ownership technical assistance organization this week. Check for an opportunity-to-purchase law and relocation assistance. The windows are short.

My new home has problems. Write to all three parties immediately, photograph monthly, file with the state agency, and compare the installation to the manual and the data plate.

Where do I get help? State manufactured housing agency · legal aid · state manufactured home owners association · resident-ownership technical assistance organizations · HUD for code issues. All free or low cost.